囲碁将棋盤 榧寿堂 ／ Shogi Piece Calligraphy Styles: Kinki, Minase, Maki Ryoko, Genbei Kiyoyasu and How to Choose by Readability
Shogi Piece Calligraphy Styles: Kinki, Minase, Maki Ryoko, Genbei Kiyoyasu and How to Choose by Readability
When you start looking at Japanese shogi pieces (koma), product pages list names such as Kinki (錦旗), Minase (水無瀬) and Maki Ryoko (巻菱湖). Most explanations then add: “choose whichever you like.”
That is accurate, but it is no help the first time you choose. This page explains what the name refers to and what actually differs when you play.
First: calligraphy style and construction are different things
Many explanations mix these up, so separate them first.
| Axis | What it refers to | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Calligraphy style (shotai, 書体) | The shape of the characters, i.e. whose handwriting they are based on | Kinki, Minase, Maki Ryoko, Genbei Kiyoyasu |
| Construction (tsukuri, 作り) | How the characters are put on the piece | oshi-goma (stamped), hori-goma (carved), horiume-goma (carved and filled), moriage-goma (raised lacquer) |
| Wood (zai, 材) | The wood of the piece itself | Boxwood (tsuge, 黄楊), maple (kaede, 楓), ho (朴) |
Price is driven mainly by construction and wood. In the sources we read, the style is not described as a main price factor, although a maker’s own version of a style can cost more. So within one budget you can usually choose the style freely. Construction is explained in Types of Shogi Pieces: Oshi, Kaki, Hori, Horiume and Moriage.
The main styles
You do not need to learn them all. Most pieces on the market fall into the list below.
| Style | Impression of the characters | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Kinki (錦旗, kinki) | Neat, often described as the standard style. The line weight varies by the maker | If unsure, start here. Works for play and for gifts |
| Minase (水無瀬, minase) | Somewhat thinner and flowing. The shape in use today differs from the historical models, and its origin is not clear | Players who want to enjoy the look |
| Maki Ryoko (巻菱湖, maki ryoko) | Thin, sharp lines. Modern and popular | Players who put appearance first |
| Genbei Kiyoyasu (源兵衛清安, genbei kiyoyasu) | Delicate and elegant, one of the classic styles. It is sometimes called the “thin” Kiyoyasu, in contrast to the plain Kiyoyasu (清安), which looks heavier | Players who like a classic look. For readability, check the stroke weight on the actual piece |
| Choroku (長録, choroku) | A style with a plain, traditional feel (the shape differs by maker) | Players who prefer a calm atmosphere |
If you know these five, you will be able to read most product pages, whether in a shop or online.
Only two things matter at the board
Leaving personal taste aside, these are the two points that make a difference while you are actually playing.
1. Stroke weight
Thick characters can be read from a distance. That means the pieces on the far side of the board are easier to see.
- A child will use the set: a thicker style is the safer choice.
- Players who find small print harder to see: a thick style is also less tiring.
- Thin styles are beautiful as calligraphy but can be harder to read from across the board.
As a rule of thumb, Genbei Kiyoyasu and Maki Ryoko are on the “thin” side, while the plain Kiyoyasu (清安) is described as heavier. Stroke weight also varies by maker, so judge by the photo of the actual piece.
2. How readable the promoted side is (tokin and the others)
This is easy to overlook. The reverse side is written in a cursive hand, so the differences between styles show up more there than on the front.
- Whether a promoted piece (for example tokin, と金, the promoted pawn) can be read at a glance matters more to people who are not yet used to it.
- For a first set, or a set given as a gift, always check the reverse side as well.
Some online listings do not show a photo of the reverse side. If it is missing, it is reasonable to ask the shop for one.
Choosing by who will use the pieces
| Who uses the pieces | Direction |
|---|---|
| A child learning the pieces | A thick, clear style. Being able to read them comes first |
| Your own play (beginner to intermediate) | Kinki. It is the standard, so it looks natural wherever you play |
| A gift | Kinki or Minase. Less likely to split opinion |
| Enjoying the look | Maki Ryoko or Minase |
| A club or classroom | A thick style, since many different people will use the set |
We did not find any style described as inherently “expensive”. A set gets more expensive because it becomes a moriage set, because the wood is better, or because the carver’s name is included. Those are factors other than the style.
Match the pieces to the board
Do not decide on the pieces alone.
- Piece size relates to the width of the squares on the board. Large pieces on a small tabletop board feel cramped. Board sizes are in Shogi Board Sizes.
- The piece stand (komadai) and piece box (komabako) are chosen to fit the pieces. What a full set includes is in The Equipment You Need to Start Shogi.
If you choose board, pieces and stand separately, each on its own budget, they may not fit together. Decide the total budget first, then divide it.
If the set is a gift
You do not need to agonise over the style. Kinki is a safe choice.
What matters more:
- Whether the recipient plays or displays. For a player, choose for practical use; for display, choose for looks.
- Whether there is room for it. A legged board takes up floor space.
FAQ
Which style do professionals use? Several styles, including Kinki, Minase and Maki Ryoko, are used for games, and there is no single “official” style. Choose the one you like.
Does the style change the price? Not much, as far as we could confirm (a carver’s own version can cost more). Price is mainly decided by construction (carved, carved-and-filled, raised lacquer) and wood. Think of the style as something you can choose within the same budget.
Some pieces do not name a style. The style is sometimes not stated on entry-level, widely sold sets. This is not a problem for play. Check the stroke weight from the photos before you choose.
Can I change only the style later? No. You would have to replace the whole set. That is why choosing for readability at the start tends to leave fewer regrets.
Does the style matter if I buy second-hand? Check first that the set is complete and has no chips. A set with one piece missing cannot be played, and in practice you cannot add a piece in a matching style. Style comes second.
This page gives a general way of thinking about shogi piece calligraphy styles (based on a Japanese article checked on 2026-08-24). Names and fine details of the characters can differ by workshop and era. Confirm actual appearance, dimensions and finish with the shop that carries the set. Kayajudo is an independent guide to Japanese go and shogi equipment.